Boredom, if overdone
Running about with the object or dropping it in
pursuit of more interesting endeavors, both resulting from boredom.
A couple of short retrieves with a soft bumper or sock per week in a
confined area are enough.
allowing playing with dead birds
putting pup on live birds too early which may
scare the pup
letting pup jump out of objects, i.e. boats,
beds. This damages more hips and shoulders in the U. S. than genetic
snatching objects from the pup's mouth
punishing pup for carrying valuable objects in
this mouth (Nike shoes, etc.)
allowing pup to chase off game at an early
age-rabbits, chickens-supposedly to build drive or because it's amusing
rough housing with the kids which can result with
being intimidated or injured. When the kids pick up or drag the pup by
his legs, the pup's hips could be damaged. Never allow kids to play
with pups unsupervised-an unpopular statement, I know… but you do want
an easily-trained gundog, don't you?
retrieving sticks, especially in water
throwing pup into water, especially cold water
Tug-of-war is a
horror to fix when you later expect nice delivery of your bird. Pull
nothing from your pup's mouth or do things which promote hard mouth. I
actually saw a film on the market that recommends this-frolicking
practice to increase desire! This is a NEVER.
3. Allowing pups to play with and chew on
bumpers to increase their desire and regard for the bumper!
4. Free swimming in swimming pools or ponds.
and unrestricted swimming will produce pups that know no difference
when it's time for water work. He may decide to hit the water for a
refreshing dip when the moods strikes him….right in the middle of your
training session. And how does the handler respond? You can find him
running the bank in a frinzy, yelling and peeping the whistle. Now we
are teaching the pup something special, "Hey, I'm out here where the
boss can't get me… this is great!" I've seen this too many times.
Handlers teach the pup too early that he can get beyond their control.
I try never to let a pup discover that he is not in some way under my
5. Chasing a pup with an object in their
chase a pup for any reason…in play, when he won't come or when he is
carrying an object. The pup will soon pick up that bumper or bird and
stand there or bound around hoping to solicit a chase from you. This is
a bear to correct.
6. Not coming when called.
this early and don't reward running away. Never call to punish. Don't
call and then do things the pup doesn't like such as give him a shot,
put him in the crate, etc.
Overuse of bribes. Take this
example from Wyoming. The pup would not come so tidbits were used to
encourage the pup. This is not a problem in limited use at first, but
they took the low, easy road and kept up the use of food treats as the
reward for coming when called. The dog now only comes when tidbits are
offered. No reward, no compliance. Who is training whom? Get the pup to
understand two words at a very young age-"No" and "Here."
7. Bolting or running away.
a pup merely bolts to avoid your desirables, this must be dealt with
quickly at an early age. If it persists, when you start to train and
the pup decides there are better pursuits elsewhere, you now have a
much faster and determined fugitive on your hands.
Allowing pups to run free is very much like #7. When a pup tires of
present company and he has been allowed to run free for months before
beginning training, he takes to the wind. I have one in training now
that often runs away and you never know when he'll take off. He'll make
a couple of nice marks and he may over run the next one and return some
45 minutes later. Keep pups under control at all times.
9. Shooting over pups while too young
gunshyness is manmade. Forget shooting over pups while they eat to
introduce gunfire. How would your kids react to surprise shots while
they partake quietly of their cocoa puffs? Gunfire conditioning comes
much later and employs a much more logical, progressive format.
10. Other common, ill-advised practices
another Wildrose law of training-- "Don't condition something into your
pup that you must train out at a later time." Pups don't forget. The
most important element in pre-training socialization is to develop the
pup's confidence in you. Good or bad, the pup won't forget. So, my
friends, let's make it good!
"Histories are more full of examples of the
fidelity of dogs than of friends." -Alexander Pope, 1709